I have always wanted to do an interview. Thanks so much to baker Andi Oakes for indulging me.
Q: Tell me about your training as a pastry chef; you had a different path to professional jobs in the field than most culinary students, didn't you?
A: Yes, I am self taught, which may have taken longer than an education in pastry at a culinary school, but I feel it was equally valuable. I did use books for reference initially, but the trial and error had to happen in the act of doing. While most of the basics for doughs, creams, cakes and the like are permanently etched in my brain, I find myself still in a state of constant learning, even after having done it for more than 25 years. Every restaurant that I worked in was a different experience, not only because the cuisine and level of the menu was varied, but because of the interactions with other chefs and cooks when sharing ideas and experiences.
Q: Are you still working in the field?
A: Although I am no longer working in restaurants, I still occasionally do some freelancing in pastry and catering for special events. I did have a specialty online store for a couple of years and took it down due to an illness in the family, but I found it very enjoyable and may pursue a similar business in the near future. I’m also considering the idea of having a food truck, which seems like a lot of hard work and fun!
Q: What are the challenges to becoming a pastry chef and remaining in the field?
A: When I first started out as a pastry chef, I was amazed at how different the working hours could be. One job began at 5 in the morning, another at 2 in the afternoon and sometimes I started working when the chef was finished at midnight. I have to say that, at times, it was a bit down-putting as dessert-and-pastry chefs are never treated as a priority, which I never understood because it was often the last memory of a meal! Besides the schedule and long hours, it was competitive and it was important to keep things fresh and new without being “trendy.” I’ve also never known any pastry chef who wasn’t an extreme perfectionist —myself included — which is a blessing and a curse. You would never hear one sending out or displaying a baked good, saying, “I guess that’ll do…”
Q: As you know, Glaser's Bake Shop, in Yorkville, has closed. "Herb Glaser said he's ready for retirement. 'Although it seems fun,' he said, 'working at a bakery is hard work with long hours.' " (WABC-TV News). Can you comment on the kinds of hours bakers keep?
A: As I mentioned in the prior answer, the hours were odd but always long. Unless I was feeling physically under the weather, I never minded putting in 10-to-15 hours a shift because it was — and still is — a great passion of mine. I adore the layering of steps (no pun intended) required as you build the separate components to create the perfect dessert. It was, however, physically exhausting and hard on the back, which I would usually feel when doing repeatedly heavy lifting or delicate long decorative work or simply towards the end of the workday.
Q: When Jon Vie, in the Village, closed in 2004, owner Nathan Prusack said, "People do not come in on their way home to pick up pastries or desserts. They're health-conscious." What are your feelings about this? I see bakeries all over the city with cakes in the windows. SOMEone is eating cake…
A: Dessert is definitely still happening. People are so funny about it these days, either confessing that they had it (as though it’s something to be ashamed of) or boasting about it (in a post on social media). Health consciousness is also very present and I personally feel that butter, eggs and all “real” food is healthy food as long as a person is not sensitive or allergic to it. A few years ago I was diagnosed with a severe gluten allergy, which I thought HAD to be a joke from the pastry gods! After my initial shock and mourning period, I began experimenting with gluten free flours and baking and found it to be yet another chapter in the unending world of baking education. While some things can’t truly be successfully converted, I was happy to find that it’s quite possible to create some fabulous pastry for restricted and altered diets. That being said, nothing beats the original and I will continue to bake, whether I can eat it or not! Regarding Mr. Prusack’s comment, I feel it’s sadly true for the most part and people feel that there has to be a special occasion to indulge, in this country, without feeling badly about it. When visiting Switzerland, France and Italy, we “celebrated” nearly every dinner in the joy of a dessert.
Q: From your writing, I can tell you clearly love to cook and bake for yourself and your friends. Any plans to share your love of food with a larger audience in the future?
A: I absolutely love writing about food and hope to complete a cookbook in the next year or two. I would also like to share some of my experiences and recipes with food magazines or possibly start a food blog, if time allows. Some additional thoughts: It is with a teary eye, and also a sigh of gratitude that I say goodbye to Glaser’s and other establishments like it who have devoted their time, energy and hearts in honor of the art of pastry. I feel so blessed that I stumbled upon this career and am constantly amazed at the joy it has brought me and others. I still get so excited when I create a beautiful dessert or learn a new skill and I will continue to do it until there’s nothing left to learn.