Because of Business Cards

The lovely Jon Vie Pastries, in Greenwich Village, had an exquisite business card. It proudly proclaimed that they were “bakers of distinction.”

A pen and ink drawing of the arch and fountain in Washington Square, it contained a birthday cake with candles. The smoke floated up into the sky, resembling clouds at the height of the fountain’s American flag.

When I was a child, Jon Vie was a Friday evening stop on the way to visit a friend of my parents, one Luis Mendietta, who lived on the corner of Waverly and West 10th. When I was old enough to wander the Village on my own, Jon Vie was always a stop for an éclair and a cup of coffee, while sitting at one of their spacious tables and watching the world on Sixth Avenue walk by.

Recently I came across Jon Vie’s business card while attempting to reconnect with my dusty Rolodex, and while doing so realized that the entries in this now archaic information-gathering system were a perfect snapshot of New York in the ‘90s. As I flipped through the various businesses, people and organizations, I realized that many of them are no longer with us.

There was Airline Stationers, on the corner of Madison and 40th where I used to drop in as a high school student doing research at Mid-Manhattan Library, scouring the aisles looking for the perfect notebook and pen.

Then there was the card for Dr. Morris Shorofsky, our general practitioner whose office was located on East 61st Street, between Third and Lex. My husband and I loved Dr. Shorofsky, who was sweet and funny and seemingly ageless.

“Dr. S,” my husband once asked him, “aren’t you ever going to retire?”

“You see that courtyard out there?” Dr. Shorofsky pointed at the window. “They’re going to bury me in it.”

Around the corner, on Lexington and 62nd, was the Classique Shoe Salon, where my mother bought her Italian-made fine leather shoes. I found their card, while perusing the collection, and remembered how I always knew I would be all grown-up when I had purchased a pair of spectator slingbacks from Classique.

Then there was Ricky Bunting, who was a Brand Ambassador for Brooks Brothers, at their iconic flagship store on Madison Avenue and 46th Street. I would have never thought about Ricky if I hadn’t come across his card, which reminded me of the conversation he and I had in Men’s Wear about the etiquette classes he was teaching with a colleague for seniors at NYU.

“Do you still use your Rolodex?” I recently asked my husband, whose business cards from various folks in the entertainment industry have been found lying on his desk for decades.

“No, I use Google,” he said, “and proceeded to explain his current method for electronic contact list keeping. I understand, for I certainly use a similar one to track my writing resources. There is something about the business card, though, a certain sense of personality, an artfulness, that is missing from the electronic contact. Perhaps I have held on to these business cards to keep them alive.

“Shops that reflect an individual's idiosyncratic tastes are slowly disappearing in the Village, a trend repeated elsewhere in Manhattan,” The New York Times said about small businesses like Jon Vie.

“Even the neighborhood's dogs know the shop, because Jon Vie saves broken cookies for them. One dog that ran away from its owner a year ago was soon found inside the shop, drooling over the cookie case.”

Sydney Kryska, the bakery’s manager “recalls a time when the machine that spits out numbers to keep the line of customers honest was in use every afternoon between 4 and 5. We had that many people buying cake on their way home," he said. "Now we don't use that machine except for Thanksgiving or other big holidays. People do not come in on their way home to pick up pastries or desserts. They're health-conscious.”

This may have been true but if there is one thing I have discovered about New York from a lifetime of observation, it is its sense of renewal. Yes, my Rolodex is a testament to loss, to a New York that is no longer there.

And yet, there is a beautiful new pastry shop around the corner from my house. In the middle of winter, in the midst of the economic devastation of a global pandemic, I watched a man paint the word Boulangerie on the sign above the window. It was artistic and wreaked of personality.

Just like my beautiful business card from Jon Vie Pastries, Bakers of Distinction.

A Baker Answers

I have always wanted to do an interview. Thanks so much to baker Andi Oakes for indulging me.

Q: Tell me about your training as a pastry chef; you had a different path to professional jobs in the field than most culinary students, didn't you?

A: Yes, I am self taught, which may have taken longer than an education in pastry at a culinary school, but I feel it was equally valuable. I did use books for reference initially, but the trial and error had to happen in the act of doing. While most of the basics for doughs, creams, cakes and the like are permanently etched in my brain, I find myself still in a state of constant learning, even after having done it for more than 25 years. Every restaurant that I worked in was a different experience, not only because the cuisine and level of the menu was varied, but because of the interactions with other chefs and cooks when sharing ideas and experiences.

Q: Are you still working in the field?

A: Although I am no longer working in restaurants, I still occasionally do some freelancing in pastry and catering for special events. I did have a specialty online store for a couple of years and took it down due to an illness in the family, but I found it very enjoyable and may pursue a similar business in the near future. I’m also considering the idea of having a food truck, which seems like a lot of hard work and fun!

Q: What are the challenges to becoming a pastry chef and remaining in the field?

A: When I first started out as a pastry chef, I was amazed at how different the working hours could be. One job began at 5 in the morning, another at 2 in the afternoon and sometimes I started working when the chef was finished at midnight. I have to say that, at times, it was a bit down-putting as dessert-and-pastry chefs are never treated as a priority, which I never understood because it was often the last memory of a meal! Besides the schedule and long hours, it was competitive and it was important to keep things fresh and new without being “trendy.” I’ve also never known any pastry chef who wasn’t an extreme perfectionist —myself included — which is a blessing and a curse. You would never hear one sending out or displaying a baked good, saying, “I guess that’ll do…”

Q: As you know, Glaser's Bake Shop, in Yorkville, has closed. "Herb Glaser said he's ready for retirement. 'Although it seems fun,' he said, 'working at a bakery is hard work with long hours.' " (WABC-TV News). Can you comment on the kinds of hours bakers keep?

A: As I mentioned in the prior answer, the hours were odd but always long. Unless I was feeling physically under the weather, I never minded putting in 10-to-15 hours a shift because it was — and still is — a great passion of mine. I adore the layering of steps (no pun intended) required as you build the separate components to create the perfect dessert. It was, however, physically exhausting and hard on the back, which I would usually feel when doing repeatedly heavy lifting or delicate long decorative work or simply towards the end of the workday.

Q: When Jon Vie, in the Village, closed in 2004, owner Nathan Prusack said, "People do not come in on their way home to pick up pastries or desserts. They're health-conscious." What are your feelings about this? I see bakeries all over the city with cakes in the windows. SOMEone is eating cake… 

A: Dessert is definitely still happening. People are so funny about it these days, either confessing that they had it (as though it’s something to be ashamed of) or boasting about it (in a post on social media). Health consciousness is also very present and I personally feel that butter, eggs and all “real” food is healthy food as long as a person is not sensitive or allergic to it.  A few years ago I was diagnosed with a severe gluten allergy, which I thought HAD to be a joke from the pastry gods! After my initial shock and mourning period, I began experimenting with gluten free flours and baking and found it to be yet another chapter in the unending world of baking education. While some things can’t truly be successfully converted, I was happy to find that it’s quite possible to create some fabulous pastry for restricted and altered diets. That being said, nothing beats the original and I will continue to bake, whether I can eat it or not! Regarding Mr. Prusack’s comment, I feel it’s sadly true for the most part and people feel that there has to be a special occasion to indulge, in this country, without feeling badly about it. When visiting Switzerland, France and Italy, we “celebrated” nearly every dinner in the joy of a dessert.

Q: From your writing, I can tell you clearly love to cook and bake for yourself and your friends. Any plans to share your love of food with a larger audience in the future? 

A: I absolutely love writing about food and hope to complete a cookbook in the next year or two. I would also like to share some of my experiences and recipes with food magazines or possibly start a food blog, if time allows. Some additional thoughts: It is with a teary eye, and also a sigh of gratitude that I say goodbye to Glaser’s and other establishments like it who have devoted their time, energy and hearts in honor of the art of pastry. I feel so blessed that I stumbled upon this career and am constantly amazed at the joy it has brought me and others. I still get so excited when I create a beautiful dessert or learn a new skill and I will continue to do it until there’s nothing left to learn.